Pheasant Facts

After Chicks Arrive

Upon arrival, make sure you do the following things immediately.

• Remove chicks from the box,
• Dip their beaks in water,
• Put them under the heat lamps.

Each of these tasks are drastically important to the health of your chicks. Losses will occur if chicks do not immediately start to eat and drink. Make sure that you keep food and water constant.

Raising Chicks

Chicks should form a circle under the heat lamp. Watch their behavior to determine if changes need to be made. If your chicks begin bunching under the lamp, this means they are too cold. Lower the lamp or add more bulbs. If they begin to spread out or pant, they are too hot. Turn off one of the bulbs, raise the heat lamps, or open a window during hot weather.

Inspect your chicks regularly during the first week, especially at night. Chicks can die from being too cold, especially during the first or second night.

After 2–3 weeks allow chicks to be in a pen outside, during the daytime, on warm, sunny days. The pen should be covered with 1-inch-hole chicken wire to keep chicks from escaping. Allow 1–2 square feet per bird in the pen. Turn the heat lamps on each afternoon when you drive the birds back inside. Use the heat lamps until the chicks are 3–4 weeks old and discontinue the lamps, depending on how cold it is, when they are spending each day outside.

Watch for cannibalism, which is indicated by blood on the wing tips and tails of smaller birds. Add branches and alfalfa hay if you see this, so birds can peck and play on it. You may have to clip beaks back with fingernail clippers; trim far enough back so it bleeds a little if cannibalism is a problem. Clipping may be done at 2 weeks and you may have to do it more than once.

Feed and water

• The brooder house should be big enough to give the chicks 3/4 of a square foot per bird.
• Use a 2 foot long feeder for every 50 chicks.
• You need a 1-gallon waterer for every 75 chicks. The waterer should be filled with marbles or have a narrow lip of less than ½ inch to keep chicks from drowning.
• At 0-3 weeks feed 28% game bird pre starter with a coccidiostat.
• At 3-8 weeks feed 26% game bird starter with a coccidiostat.
• At 8-20 weeks feed 20% game bird grower.
• At 20 weeks feed 14% game bird maintenance.
• If you can’t find game bird feed, you can use a turkey ration.
• The feed should be in crumble form.
• Terramyacin (an antibiotic) can be added to water during the first week if chicks seem ill.

Brooder Barns

You can’t raise young birds without a brooder barn. The chicks are cared for in these structures for their first 6-8 weeks. It has to be weather tight (no drafts) and completely disinfected 1-2 weeks before you get your newborn chicks. Chicks will thrive in a sanitized environment with new bedding, appropriate lighting, heat and feed. Your chicks generally arrive in a box. They should be removed from the box into the brooding area immediately. Heat, water and feed should be accessible right away. You don’t want your chicks to compete for these necessities. The more comfortable and stress-free the chicks are, the better the chances that they will remain healthy and grow to adulthood.

Brooder Rooms Heating

• Perfect brooder houses have 2 rooms.
  • The A room is where the chicks live for the first 3 weeks and have an ideal density of ¼ inch square foot per chick.
  • The B room is where they live until they are 6-8 weeks old. And they need ½ square foot per chick.
• Gas brooders (20,000-30,000 BTU’S) are great for large flocks if you have gas. Otherwise, you need at least one infrared bulb (250 watt) for every 100 chicks.
• Bulbs with a red end are not as bright. They help to control pecking and cannibalism.
• You can use cardboard to make a circle 14-18 inches high and 4 feet in diameter to confine chicks and protect them from drafts. About 50 chicks should fit within each circle.
• You have to pay special attention to chick behavior and adjust the heat lamps accordingly.
  • If they bunch up they may be too cold.
  • If they are moving away from the heat lamp, they may be too warm.
• Chicks are weaned off this heat source at about a degree a day starting around day 5.
• A forced air heater is used after the gradual reduction in temperature.
• By 6-7 weeks the temperature in the B room should be similar to the outside temperature.

Brooder Room Bedding

Kiln dried wood chips make the best bedding. Wood shavings that are too small are a hazard to small chicks that will eat them and die from their gizzard getting impacted. Sand and newspaper are also a hazard because the chicks can lose their footing. Straw is okay for chicks in room B. Be sure to keep all bedding dry to ensure raising healthy chicks.

Flight Pens

At about 8 weeks of age it is time for the pheasants to move to outside pens. The pens should be covered with netting to prevent escape and to keep predators out.

• Allow for about 25 square feet per bird and have shelters for the birds.
• The pens need to have straw in all 4 corners of the pens and feed under the shelters for their first week in the outside setting.
• Covered pen construction is one of the greatest expenses on a pheasant farm.
• If you build an 80 ft. By 150 ft. pen you will need posts no farther than 12 ft. on center. You pound the 10 ft. treated posts 3 ft. into the ground.
• All 4 corners need to be braced,
• The side wire should be 20 gauge PVC coated hex wire (1in.)
• You should bury the wire and flare it out.
• A top net should not be nylon. It should be a tied polypropylene or polyethylene 2 inch net.
• A 1/8 in. aircraft cable should run along the tops of the posts.
• The side wire is hung on the cable and stapled to the posts.
• The cable is the top net support. One of the cables goes the 150 ft. length and two cables run the 80 ft. length.
• Prop posts (10ft. or 12 ft. 2×4’s) are placed at each place where the cable crosses in the pen. During snow or ice storms the posts are lowered to prevent damage to the pens.

Ground Cover

Ground cover is needed in the pens to provide shelter and distract the birds from pecking at each other. Natural cover is best. The best natural cover is Lambsquarter. It has leaves all the way down the stem and doesn’t tend to grow through the netting. It lasts throughout the season. Ragweed is fine in the spring, but it gets out of control later in the season and is best avoided. Corn and Milo can be planted as cover and make excellent cover for part of the season.

Vermin Control

Rats can upset the birds by disturbing their habitat. They bring diseases and can weaken their immune system and even cause death. They have been known to eat the feed and gnaw at pen structure. If you see rats during the day, your infestation may be large! In order to help minimize the rat population take the follow precautions:

• Keep all junk piles cleaned up.
• Place poison (bait stations) around the perimeter of your pens.
• Fill active rat holes with bait.
• Remove birds from the pen and poison all over the pen and remove the feeders.

Starlings can cause many of the same problems. Before poisoning or taking action against starlings, contact the Fish and Wildlife Service.

Pheasant Predators

The most common predators include:

• Foxes
• Hawks
• Owls
• Weasels
• Skunks
• Opossums
• Snakes
• Raccoons
• Minks

Propane cannons and strobe lights can be used to keep predators away from pens. Many falconers are licensed to trap and remove raptors. Be proactive and enlist their help.

Cannibalism

Pheasants will pick at each other in captivity. You can tell this is happening if you see balding heads or missing rump feathers. Some reasons you might see this happening include:

• Too many birds in a pen
• Not enough feeder space
• Lack of proper nutrition.

Prevent these problems from occurring by being diligent, but also put peepers on your birds at 5 weeks of age. Peepers are a type of blinder that keeps the pheasants from seeing directly in front of them and eliminates the pecking behavior. Beak clipping may also be necessary.

Washing Eggs

Pheasant eggs must be washed before they are put in sanitized incubators. The most effective process is to use Kuhl egg wash machine and follow these guidelines.

1. Wash mild non-foaming soap and Clorox bleach at 105 degrees
2. Use a blower to remove the water
3. Spray with an ammonia solution.

Hatching Eggs

Days 1-20

• In incubator
• Temperature of 99.4° F
• Humidity level of 83-84° F wet bulb (53% relative humidity.)

Days 21-25

• In hatcher
• Temperature of 98° F
• Humidity level of 83-84° F wet bulb (53% humidity.)

Chicks begin to hatch somewhere between 23 ½ days and 24 days.

• Humidity should be increased to 91° F wet bulb (75%-76% relative humidity), at this time. The increase in humidity helps to keep the chicks from sticking to the cell membrane.

Please note that eggs must be turned daily and humidity levels must be kept constant. When either of these factors is compromised, hatchability is reduced.

Common Pheasant Questions

What is a pheasant’s lifespan? How long do pheasants live?

Pheasants generally live around 3 to 5 years in the wild, though some can survive longer in protected environments like game farms or reserves.

Predators and harsh weather conditions often shorten their lifespan in nature. In captivity, where threats are minimal, pheasants can live up to 11 years with proper care.

Where do pheasants live? What is a pheasants natural habitat?

Pheasants thrive in diverse habitats, including grasslands, farmlands, and open woodlands. They prefer areas with dense vegetation for cover and access to food. These birds often make their homes in agricultural fields, where they can find grains and insects. Their natural habitat includes a mix of open spaces for foraging and sheltered areas for nesting.

Is the pheasant population decreasing?

Yes, the pheasant population has been declining in many areas due to habitat loss, farming practices, and climate changes. The reduction of wild spaces and the increased use of pesticides have reduced their natural food sources and nesting areas.

However, conservation efforts and controlled breeding programs aim to stabilize and increase their numbers in certain regions.

Is pheasant meat healthy to eat?

Yes, pheasant meat is a healthy option. It is lean, high in protein, and low in fat compared to more common meats like chicken and beef. Pheasant also contains essential vitamins and minerals, such as iron, zinc, and B vitamins, making it a nutritious addition to a balanced diet.

What is a male pheasant called?

A male pheasant is called a cock. These birds are often colorful, displaying vibrant plumage to attract females during the breeding season.

What are female pheasants called?

Female pheasants are referred to as hens. Unlike their male counterparts, hens are typically more muted in color, which helps them blend into their surroundings while nesting and protecting their young.

Can pheasants fly?

Yes, pheasants can fly, but they are not known for sustained flight. They are strong but short-distance flyers, usually taking to the air in bursts to escape predators or move to new feeding grounds. In the wild, pheasants prefer to run, only flying when absolutely necessary.

Where to buy pheasants?

Pheasants can be purchased from specialized game farms, hunting preserves, or breeders that focus on game birds. Many farms also sell dressed pheasants for cooking. If you’re looking to buy pheasants for stocking or hunting, you can order mature birds and pheasant chicks online from MacFarlane Pheasants, Inc.

Are pheasants native to North America?

No, pheasants are not native to North America. The common pheasant, also known as the ring-necked pheasant, was introduced from Asia in the 19th century. Since then, they have adapted well to North American climates and are commonly found in the wild, particularly in agricultural regions.

Where did pheasants originate?

Pheasants originally come from Asia, specifically regions in China, Mongolia, and Siberia. Over time, they were introduced to other parts of the world, including Europe and North America, where they are now commonly found in the wild and on game farms.

Can pheasants live with chickens?

Yes, pheasants can live with chickens, but it’s essential to take precautions. While they can share space, pheasants are more skittish than chickens and may need separate areas to avoid stress. Additionally, pheasants require different diets and care routines, so it’s important to manage their needs carefully.

Do pheasants mate for life?

No, pheasants do not mate for life. Male pheasants, or cocks, are polygamous, meaning they mate with several females, or hens, during the breeding season. After mating, the female pheasant is solely responsible for nesting and raising the young.

Are pheasants endangered?

Pheasants as a species are not considered endangered, but some populations in specific regions are at risk due to habitat destruction, hunting, and environmental changes.

Conservation efforts and habitat restoration programs are in place in many areas to support stable populations.

Breeds

Ringnecked Pheasants

Ringnecked Pheasants are the most popular breed. Ringnecked Pheasants are often raised by growers as food and to introduce back into the wild for hunting, and for other raisers. The following traits make this breed ideal for stocking and hunting.

• They have excellent flying ability.
• They are typically healthy and vigorous birds.
• They prefer to be on the ground but fly to find cover quickly and are very fast.

Females are called hens and males are called cocks. Male ringnecked pheasants are brightly colored, have blue-green heads, white neck rings, red wattles, and long pointed tails. Females are medium to dark brown with long pointed tails. These pheasants grow 21-36 inches and weigh around 2.9 pounds but the Extra Large Ringnecked cocks can weigh 3.5-4 pounds and the hen can weigh 2.5-3 pounds at maturity. The average life span of the full grown ring-necked bird is 10-20 months.

Ringnecked pheasants eat according to the season and habitat, feeding on grains, roots, berries, spiders, earthworms, and snails in the wild. They eat more seeds in winter, more insects in the summer. Chicks begin feeding themselves early-on. They usually feed on the ground, sometimes in trees.

The ringnecked pheasant’s prime habitat is in crop fields. The secondary habitat includes

• Wetlands
• Grasslands
• Dense bushes and trees.

In general, this breed travels in flocks in the fall and winter and stay together until spring when the mating season begins. Male courtship includes the male strutting around the female with his back and tail feathers toward her and his wattle swollen. Males have more than one mate and they defend their territory with a loud crowing call and beating of wings. Once fertilized, the female will build a shallow nest of grass, leaves, and weeds. Females usually lay 6-15 eggs in their own or another’s nest. Egg incubation lasts for 23-28 days. Chicks are capable of flight at around 12 days but stay with mother for 10 or 12 weeks. Predators will go after eggs and many young birds are lost to predators in the wild.

Melanistic Mutant Pheasant

The Melanistic Mutant is one of the best known pheasants for survival in the wild. This breed is large with luminous greenish-black plumage that changes according to the angle of observation. They are a pure breed and must be bred together to produce another mutant. Melanistic Mutants can be found in both the US and the UK.

The habitat for the Melanistic Mutant is between 55 and 70% crop fields. The rest of the habitat should be wetlands, grasslands and bushy thickets.

Disease

Avian Influenza

Avian influenza is a virus that can infect domestic poultry and other birds. Infected birds can spread the virus in their saliva, nasal secretions, and feces. This dangerous disease is a real concern to pheasant raisers. MacFarlane Pheasants, Inc., the largest pheasant business in North America, has developed a protocol that is meant to protect their birds from this deadly disease. This protocol states that anyone who visits the farm must:

• State that they have not been around any poultry or other birds for the past 48 hours.
• Wear clothing and shoes that have not been on any other production facility.
• Wear booties.
• Not enter production facilities.

Additional Steps to Aid In Disease Prevention

Remember that it is better to prevent disease than try to cure it once your birds are infected. It is important to keep old birds away from young birds so that organisms are not transferred from one generation to another. Wash eggs with a specialized disinfectant cleaner before taking them to the hatchery. Always sanitize your barns between every group of chicks you raise. Always use new bedding after you sanitize. Remove any dead birds immediately to avoid flies and maggots it the hot months. Other tips include:

• All eggs should be watched and sanitized prior to going to the hatchery.
• Brooder facilities and equipment are cleaned and sanitized between flocks.
• All flocks begin with clean, dry bedding.
• All delivery trucks are washed and disinfected with Lysol before and after deliveries.
• Delivery truck drivers put on booties and uniforms when they get out of their truck.
• Drivers do not enter customer facilities.
• Drivers leave their booties and uniforms with the customer.
• Drivers go home directly after a delivery and wear clean clothes to begin work the next day.
• Birds are tested regularly for avian influenza and receive a clean bill of health from a licensed veterinarian.

Hunting

Pheasant Hunting in Wisconsin

The ringnecked pheasant flourished in Wisconsin after it was brought here in the early 1800s. Wisconsin has the ideal habitat; lots of marshland, uncut grassland, and farm fields provide both the food the birds require and the groundcover they need for nesting and protection. Today, the best hunting grounds in the state can be located in southeastern Wisconsin and in some west central parts of the state.

Pheasant hunting season for 2015 in Wisconsin is Oct. 17 through Dec. 31. Birds are released by the DNR once before the hunting season and twice a week for the first two weeks of the hunting season. They are then released once a week for the remainder of the season, except during deer hunting season. Nearly 200,000 pheasants were harvested in 2013. Although the beauty of Wisconsin in the fall cannot be outdone, there are several other states that are also important to bird hunters.

What to Wear Pheasant Hunting

Layers are key, as hunting often takes place in cooler conditions. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer to keep dry, followed by an insulating layer for warmth, and a waterproof outer shell to protect against rain and wind.

Bright, blaze orange gear is also a must to ensure visibility and safety in the field. A blaze orange vest or hat will make you easily noticeable to other hunters. Durable hunting boots with good ankle support and traction are vital for walking through fields, brush, and uneven terrain. Gloves and a cap or beanie are useful to protect against the elements while maintaining dexterity for handling your gear.

How to Call A Pheasant

While pheasants are not as vocal as other game birds, you can use specific calls to mimic their natural sounds. The most common call is the rooster crow, which replicates the distinctive sound male pheasants make. You can also use clucking or cackling sounds, especially after flushing a bird.

It’s important to practice these calls in advance so they sound authentic. Pheasant calls are available in handheld or mouth-blown varieties, and both can be effective if used correctly. The key to a successful pheasant call is to mimic natural behavior, so timing and volume matter—don’t overcall and keep it subtle.

What Size Shot & Choke is Best for Pheasant Hunting

The best shot size for pheasant hunting typically ranges from #4 to #6, depending on the terrain and distance. #5 shot is often a favorite choice as it provides a good balance between pellet count and knockdown power. A heavier shot like #4 is ideal for long-range shots or windy conditions, while #6 is better for close-range encounters.

When it comes to choke selection, a modified choke is often recommended for pheasant hunting. It offers a good balance between spread and density at medium ranges, which is where most pheasant encounters occur. If you’re hunting in more open fields where longer shots are likely, a full choke may provide better accuracy and range.

Hunting Seasons in the Other Top Hunting States

The top bird hunting states, according to Live Outdoors, are South Dakota, North Dakota, Nebraska, Minnesota, Kansas, and Iowa. During the 2009 hunting season in South Dakota, hunters harvested more than a million and a half birds. Visit the pheasant section of the DNR in each of these states to get more details regarding rules, regulations, bag limits, etc.

Tips for Pheasant Hunters

Game and Fish magazine has some great tips for hunting:

1. Use a good bird dog, such as a lab or pointer, to help you flush out pheasants but also to track it down after the shoot. The author notes that you may be able to knock the birds down, but finding them is more difficult without a dog. Some hunting clubs will provide a dog for an additional charge. If you don’t have a dog along for the hunt, they recommend having one hunter take position and the other walk zigzag through the bushes to flush birds out.
2. If you don’t have a dog, stop frequently. Walk slowly and stop regularly to stand still. This tactic will often cause birds to flush that wouldn’t have otherwise.
3. Visit the hunting grounds pre-season to get a feel for where birds might be seen. Early in the season, pheasants tend to hang near water.
4. Practice on some clay pigeons before you go out for the hunt so you know your gun and your aim are accurate. Hunters choose three different gauge shotguns for bird hunting. Some go with a 20-gauge, others a 16, but a 12-gauge will get the job done. A number 5 lead shot is recommended.
5. Hunt pheasant during the early morning or evening. Those times tend to be the most productive. If you are hunting at a hunt club, it doesn’t matter as much because the birds are released a few minutes or hours before the hunt is scheduled. Hunting during the colder hours, or during a cold spell, does have advantages. It can be easier on the dogs and easier for tracking.

Americans have been enjoying hunting pheasants for many years. With a little planning and preparation, you too can make sure you bag your limit!

Pheasant Taxonomy

Blood Pheasants

Blood Pheasants (Genus Ihaginis)

Himalayan Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus cruentus)

• Tibetan Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus tibetanus)
• Greenway’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus holoptilus)
• Sikkim Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus affinis)
• Clarke’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus clarkei)
• Rock’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus rocki)
• Kuser’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus kuseri)
• Geoffroy’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus geoffroyi)
• Mrs. Sage’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus annae)
• David’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus sinensis)
• Berezowski’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus berezowskii)
• Beick’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus beicki)
• Bianchi’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus michaelis)
• Mrs. Vernay’s Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus marionae)

Tragopans

Koklass

Koklass Pheasant (Pucrasia macrolopha)

• Western Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha castanea)
• Orange-Collared Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha ruficollis)
• Joret’s Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha joretiana)
• Common Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha macrolopha)
• Nepal Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha nipalensis)
• Kashmir Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha biddulphi)
• Meyer’s Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha meyeri)
• Yellow-Necked Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha xanthospila)
• Darwin’s Koklass (Pucrasia macrolopha darwini)

Monals

Monals (Genus Lophophorus)

• Sclater’s Monal (Lophophorus sclateri)
• Chinese Monal (Lophophorus lhuysi)
• Himalayan Monal (Lophophorus impeyanus)

Junglefowls

Gailo Pheasants (Genus Lophura)

Eared Pheasants

Kalij Pheasant (Lophura leucomelana)

• Black-Backed kalij (Lophura leucomelana melanota)
• William’s Kalij (Lophura leucomelana williamsi)
• White Crested Kalij (Lophura leucomelana hamiltoni)
• Black-Breasted Kalij (Lophura leucomelana lathami)
• Nepal Kalij (Lophura leucomelana leucomelana)
• Lineated Kalij (Lophura leucomelana lineata)
• Crawfurd’s Kalij (Lophura leucomelana crawfurdi)
• Oates’s Kalij (Lophura leucomelana oatesi)
• Black Kalij (Lophura leucomelana moffitti)

Silver Pheasant (Lophura nycthemera)

• Anidse Silver (Lophura nycthemera anidnsis)
• Bel’s Silver (Lophura nycthemera beli)
• Lewis’s Silver (Lophura nycthemera lewisi)
• Jone’s Silver (Lophura nycthemera jonesi)
• Rang Jiang Silver (Lophura nycthemera rongjiangensis)
• Hainan Silver (Lophura nycthemera whiteheadi)
• Szechwan Silver (Lophura nycthemera omeiensis)
• Berlioz’s Silver (Lophura nycthemera berliozi)
• Ruby Mines Silver (Lophura nycthemera rufipes)
• Rippon’s Silver (Lophura nycthemera ripponi)
• Western Silver (Lophura nycthemera occidentalis)
• True Silver (Lophura nycthemera nycthemera)
• Fokien Silver (Lophura nycthemera fokiensis)
• Lao Silver (Lophura nycthemera beaulieui)

Imperial Pheasant (Lophura imperialis)

Edwards’s Pheasant (Lophura edwardsi)

Swinhoe’s Pheasant (Lophura swinhoei)

Salvadori’s Pheasant (Lophura inornata)

• Atjeh Salvadori’s (Lophura inornata hoogerwerfi)
• Southern Salvadori’s (Lophura inornata inornata)

Crested Fireback Pheasant (Lophura ignita)

• Vieillot’s Crested Fireback (Lophura ignita rufa)
• Greater Bornean Crested Fireback (Lophura ignita nobilis)
• Lesser Bornean Crested Fireback (Lophura ignita ignita)
• Delacour’s Crested Fireback (Lophura ignita macartneyi)

Bulwer’s Wattled Pheasant (Lophura bulweri)

Siamese Fireback (Lophura diardi)

Eared Pheasants

White Eared Pheasant (Crossoption crossoption)

• Harman’s Eared (Crossoptilon crossoptilon harmani)
• Tibetan White Eared (Crossoptilon crossoptilon drouyni)
• Dolan’s Eared (Crossoptilon crossoptilon dolani)
• Yunnan White Eared (Crossoptilon crossoptilon lichiangense)
• Szechuan White Eared (Crossoptilon crossoptilon crossoptilon)

Blue Eared Pheasant (Crossoptilon auritum)

Brown Eared Pheasant (Crossoptilon mantchuricum)

Cheer Pheasants

Cheer Pheasant (Catreus wallichi)

Long-Tailed Pheasants

Bartailed-Tailed Pheasants

Long-Tailed Pheasants (Genus Syrmaticus)

• Burmese Bartailed (Syrmaticus humiae burmanicus)
• Hume’s Bartailed (Syrmaticus humiae humiae)

Mikado Pheasant (Syrmaticus Mikado)

Elliot’s Pheasant (Syrmaticus ellioti)

Copper Pheasant (Syrmaticus soemmerringi)

• Pacific Copper (Syrmaticus soemmerringi subrufus)
• Soemmerring’s Copper (Syrmaticus soemmerringi soemmerringi)
• Scintillating Copper (Syrmaticus soemmerringi scintillans)
• Shikoku Copper (Syrmaticus soemmerringi intermedius)
• Ijima Copper (Syrmaticus soemmerringi ijimae)

Reeves Pheasant (Syrmaticus reevesi)

True Pheasants

Common Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus)

• Talisch Caucasus (Phasianus colchicus talischensis)
• Prince of Wales’ (Phasianus colchicus principalis)
• Satchu Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus satscheuensis)
• Alashan (Phasianus colchicus alaschanicus)
• Kobdo Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus hagenbecki)
• Southern Caucasus (Phasianus colchicus colchicus)
• Northern Caucasus (Phasianus colchicus septentrionalis)
• Khivan (Phasianus colchicus chrysomelas)
• Taiwan Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus formosanus)
• Rothschild’s (Phasianus colchicus rothschildi)
• Zaidan (Phasianus colchicus vlangalii)
• Sungpan (Phasianus colchicus suehschanenis)
• Tonkinese Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus takatsukasae)
• Chinese Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus torquatus)
• Kweichow (Phasianus colchicus decollatus)
• Stone’s (Phasianus colchicus elegans)
• Sohokhoto (Phasianus colchicus sohokhotensis)
• Persian (Phasianus colchicus persicus)
• Yarkand (Phasianus colchicus shawi)
• Zarudny’s (Phasianus colchicus zarudyni)
• Tarim (Phasianus colchicus tarimensis)
• Gobi Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus edzinensis)
• Korean Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus karpowi)
• Shansi (Phasianus colchicus kiangsuensis)
• Syr Daria (Phasianus colchicus turcestanicus)
• Kirghiz (Phasianus colchicus mongolicus)
• Manchurian Ring-Necked (Phasianus colchicus pallasi)
• Zerafshan (Phasianus colchicus zerafschanicus)

Green Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus versicolor)

• Pacific Green (Phasianus colchicus tanensis)
• Northern Green (Phasianus colchicus robustipes)
• Southern Green (Phasianus colchicus versicolor)

Ruffed Pheasants

Bronze Tailed Pheasant (Polyplectron charlcurum)

• North Sumatran Bronze Tailed (Polyplectron chalcurum scutulatum)
• South Sumatran Bronze Tailed (Polyplectron chalcurum chalcurum)

Germain’s Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron germaini)

Rothschild’s Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron inopinatum)

Grey Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron bicalcaratum)

• Himalayan Grey Peacock (Polyplectron bicalcaratum bakeri)
• Burmese Grey Peacock (Polyplectron bicalcaratum bicalcaratum)
• Ghigi’s Grey Peacock (Polyplectron bicalcaratum ghigii)
• Lowe’s Grey Peacock (Polyplectron bicalcaratum bailyi)
• Hainan Grey Peacock (Polyplectron bicalcaratum katsumatae)

Bornean Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron malacense schleiermacheri)

Palawan Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron emphanum)

Malay Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron malacense malacense)

Crested Argus

Crested Argus (Rheinartia ocellata)

• Malay Crested Argus (Rheinartia ocellata nigrescens)
• Rheinard’s Crested Argus (Rheinartia ocellata ocellata)

Great Argus

Great Argus (Genus Argusianus)

• Bornean Great Argus (Argusianus argus grayi)
• Malay Great Argus (Argusianus argus argus)
• Double Banded Great Argus (Argusianus argus bipunctatus)